Title page
Basic wave theory
Deep water waves
Shallow water waves
Waves in water of varying depth
Wave trains
Beach waves
Applets
References
Symbols Legend
Troubleshooting

 

In fact, Biesel [Bi] performs a complete analysis of this situation. He finds that the following equations describe the motion of the surface waves:

yx = x + r Asin(wt- ó
õ
k dx)+ar A1 cos(wt- ó
õ
k dx)
yy = r Bcos(wt- ó
õ
k dx)+ar B1 sin(wt- ó
õ
k dx)

In this model a is the angle of incline of the beach and A,A1,B,and B1 are coefficients involving k and h. The motion described above is valid unless the wave reaches a breaking point.

<<previous | next>>