| Title page |
| Basic wave theory |
| Deep water waves |
| Shallow water waves |
| Waves in water of varying depth |
| Wave trains |
| Beach waves |
| Applets |
| References |
| Symbols Legend |
| Troubleshooting |
We see that the motion of shallow water waves is given by
| yx(x,y,t) =r(1/kh)sin(wt-kx) |
| yy(x,y,t) =r(1+y/h)cos(wt-kx) |
Notice that in this model the water particles move in an elliptical motion. The x-amplitude of each ellipse remains constant throughout the water. The y-amplitude decreases to zero as one approaches the bottom. As a result, the water on sea floor moves back and forth with no vertical motion. In reality, eddies are created at this point and undulating ridges are formed.
This phenomena is captured in the following applet.
Java applet: shallow water waves