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It is not certain exactly when the breaking point occurs. However,
there are two theories that are the most widely accepted:
It should be noted that after the wave breaks the water no longer follows the equations set forth earlier. After breaking, the particles do not move separately around ellipses, but rather the water has a total movement, with speed being controlled by the wave's ending propagation speed, gravity and turbulence. Our model shows water moving as it would at a beach. Again, the important aspects to notice are that the wavelength decreases with depth and the amplitude increases. The model stops where the wave would break. Java applet: beach waves |