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Basic water wave theory Suppose we observe a calm lake from a profile view. We let x
denote the horizontal direction and y denote the upward direction.
For simplicity we set y = 0 to be the surface of the lake. At this
point we will assume that the lake has a constant depth of h. Given a particle that occupies the location (x,y) when the sea is at rest, we denote the position of this particle at time t by
*We recommend the textbook by Main [M] as a reference for this material. Many of our introductory remarks are based on the presentation in that text. |